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Here's a list of memorable things we saw or did in Folegandros.

-The hike to the church above the Hora

-2-up dirt-road scootering on Oliver, the little 125 cc scoot that could. Very practical rental, handled hills without complaint, maybe the most wooden and non-powerful front brake I've ever felt. Rebecca was remarkably game as I rode the scooter on a fairly hairy dirt and rock road. The road was supposed to go to a beach, but we took a wrong turn, and yadda yadda, we ended up in a swamp and then on a very rocky not-a-beach. Swimming ensued regardless.

-curried goat tagliatelle at Pitsara (?) in the Hora, eaten in a pretty square in the centre of town. It was one of the best things I've had. Rebecca enjoyed her stuffed zucchini as well. I ordered a Kaiser, slightly bemused at the price, but less so when it ended up being a 500 mL bottle.

-A nice hotel, Vrahos: quiet room, adorable (but cold) jacuzzi, lovely view. At €40/night, a steal. Modest but reasonable buffet for €9 pp, which we had one day, and which I won. I always win the buffet. Which is to say, I lose.

-we saw four churches, a good rate. One (Ag. Giorgos) was pretty inside, with a painted white iconostasis with a red and green grapevine design painted on it

-For some reason, I fell in love with the looks of a small Mercedes bus, which was probably 1990s vintage (maybe 80s?) but looked like it could have been 1960s. Short, airy, charming. I wanted to buy it, ship it home, and drive it in Canada. A great bad idea.

-Sunday breakfast at a little cafe that had some lovely hand puzzles (get the ring off the thing, et cetera) and reignited a love of such things in me. One nice one had an oval Ourobouros with a cunningly shaped jack (six-pointed caltrop) stuck in it. I didn't solve that one. Now I really want to solve it. Same cafe also had a rig that held three liquor bottles with a common feed into a single funnel, for instant drunkenness. It was that kind of cafe. The cheese pie was good though.